RAVIZZA'S ADVICE FOR MADE-TO-MEASURE STYLE
| When you order a suit of clothes, don't forget to ask for two pairs of trousers. In fact, trousers wear out faster than jackets. If you smoke, and carry a lighter with you, don't forget to ask the tailor to add two waist-pockets, one for the lighter and one for coins. Trouser turn-ups are a matter of personal taste, but if you prefer, remember the "golden measure" of the turn-up": three and one half centimetres if you are less than one metre seventy tall, and four centimetres if you are taller.
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The drop of the trousers also has a "golden measure": twenty centimetres if you wear up to size 40, twenty-one centimetres up to size 43, twenty-two centimetres for larger sizes. The trousers are the right length when the turn-up falls straight, touching the shoe without folding.There should always be two back pockets, both with buttons. The side pockets are cut along the seam. A well-cut made-to-measure jacket should have the fewest possible internal pockets, as they make the line heavy, especially if you are so imprudent as to use them.
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| In a tailor-made jacket, the sleeve buttonholes should be real and open. All the same, many men of style consider keeping the first button undone, precisely to show that it is tailor made, to be an exaggerated ostentation. A tailor-made suit looks classy, above all for the style of the cut and the care taken with the finishing touches. It is always distinguished, with no need for emphasis.
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